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By Mark and Anne M., SCNA members
April 18-25, 2006 - We read excellent on-line reviews about this small, all-inclusive (not inexpensive) nudist resort one-hour south of Cancun and started firming plans in mid-December 2005. Our fantasy was to relax naked by the sea while balmy breezes and cold drinks induced temporary amnesia. I was further enticed by the potential for exploration of the Yucatan Peninsula: the area appeared rich with interesting geologic features and artifacts of the once thriving Mayan culture.
Direct from LAX, Cancun is a five-hour flight. Unfortunately, last week alterations by Mexicana redirected our flight through Mexico City, but our basic plan remained intact. Two powerful storms - most significantly Wilma in late October - smashed Cancun in 2005. Hurricane damage was obvious in the form of toppled trees and stripped vegetation as we approached Cancun.
We rented a small car from Hertz. LDW insurance runs higher than daily insurance fees. Shuttle transportation can be prearranged, though Hidden Beach Resort's relative isolation can delay delivery by hours. Our drive was uneventful, if curious. Highway 307 begins as a 4-lane super highway, transforms near sprawling Playa del Carmen into an oddly divided avenue disrupted by poorly marked, high-profile speed bumps, and then resumes as a 3-lane road towards Tulum; locals drive as if the road has four lanes. Much construction activity was apparent along the road, apparently a result of reconstruction and continuing massive investment into the Mayan Riviera. We encountered heavy traffic at 5:30 p.m.
Hidden Beach Resort (HBR) is about 20 minutes north of Tulum, next to its textile-only sister facility, the El Dorado Inn. A guarded gate heads a landscaped, one-lane road down to the resorts. As one person parked our car, another led us through a second secured gate. The grounds are beautiful. Check-in was swift and we were soon conducted to our second story room.
All 42 rooms enjoy ocean views. Gorgeous blue waves broke some 40 yards away from our view window and a delightful breeze blew continuously for the entire week. We never turned on the AC. The spacious room was equipped with a canopied king bed, 2-person Jacuzzi tub (recently added), DVD player, Cable TV, refrigerator full of soft drinks, water and beer and a small liquor cabinet. The front desk offers a selection of movies, including adult titles. A sweaty bottle of champagne and plate of fresh fruit insisted that we relax. After unpacking, we stripped and explored HBR.
HBR was designed for naked bliss. Most of the action happens between the rooms and the Caribbean. Center stage includes a large pool with a full sunken bar and a ~ thirty-person hot spa that generally filled with chatty guests early in the evening. A "lazy river" spans the entire length of the hotel like long legs extending from the pool. Plenty of shade is available on the beach. Our only despair was that the beach contained more coral and rock than sand. Though the clear, warm waters were abundant with life, scurrying tropical fish did not offer the same release a sandy beach may have.
The resort was 2/3 full when we arrived, but filled late in the week. Desires, a clothing-optional spa much closer to Cancun, evidently had booked up and HBR absorbed excess guests: alternative lifestyle folks added spice to evening gatherings in the spa.
"All-inclusive" means everything is included, including meals. We never tried the 24-hour room service. Except for dinner, we ate meals outside, nude. Generally we found the food quite tasty, even delicious, although service lagged as the resort pushed capacity. Choices were somewhat limited. Although cheap Chilean wines were included with all meals, premium wines were available for a fee. Alternatively, the option to dine (clothed) at one of four restaurants at the much larger El Dorado was offered; the best of these, the Mexican restaurant, seemed booked-up days in advance, but we managed to try it once. Most HBR guests noted the slow service at El Dorado restaurants.
HBR organized a number of social activities throughout the day. Daily Spanish and cooking lessons, pool volleyball and calisthenics or silly trivia/drinking games, and nightly activities at the upstairs lounge - the lingerie contest was hilarious - helped break the ice. We really enjoyed our fellow guests.
We were content to remain at HBR for 3 days before (grudgingly) venturing away. The area surrounding HBR offers numerous eco-parks, cenotes - underground freshwater rivers that occasionally well up to the surface, offering interesting scuba or snorkeling opportunities - and Mayan ruins. We drove fifteen minutes to Akumal Beach, rented equipment (as seems common, US currency is happily accepted in lieu of Pesos) and snorkeled in a cenote that flowed into a lagoon loaded with tropical fish. Afterwards we explored Mayan ruins at coastal Tulum, without a guide (one guide we overheard - Cliff? - seemed to invent his monologue as he strolled along). As some Australians commented (though referring to more famous Chichen Itza ruins), "It was just rocks." Very little historical information was provided and no museum/artifacts were available to contemplate. However, we were easily able to return to HBR in time for lunch and a relaxing naked afternoon…
In addition to the above activities, a coral reef just off the coast provides excellent opportunities to snorkel. Lomas Travel organizes a weekly nude sailing/snorkeling cruise that departs from HBR; those who attended apparently had great fun (some sported impressive sunburns). We learned that beaches in Tulum were considered clothing optional and invited friends to drive to Cabanas Copal for a naked morning romp: it was rocky in the tidal zone, but the beaches were marvelously sandy. We weren't the only naked people there.
Aside from suffering mild diarrhea (we were not alone: post-hurricane related?), we rated our HBR experience "excellent." We miss the friends we made, but will return again (April seemingly has ideal weather). Next time we will explore a large nature reserve south of Tulum (Sian Ka'an)… and try the Nude Cruise. Maybe we'll pre-tan a bit before leaving California, too.
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